So my mom's birthday is January 21 which this year was also Martin Luther King Jr Day. As some of you know, my mom passed away last September after a very long battle with Alzheimer's and dementia which slowly stole her quality of life over the last 12+ years. Her passing was a blessing as her mind, life quality, and then her body itself deteriorated.
So I was REALLY feeling a need to hit the open road and just get away so that I wasn't trapped in my anxiety and depression. I had a great motivator to not wallow (which for me, means sleeping and eating all day, which is NOT a good thing) in my emotions because there was a Super Blood Moon as well as a three-day weekend.
Being that it was Martin Luther King Jr weekend and in anticipation of Black History Month in February, I wanted to incorporate something in my road trip to learn and celebrate these occasions as well as have some productive (not eating or sleeping!) time for healing and learning.
And boy did I hit the jackpot! While Googling and researching I found a mention of Allensworth State Historic Park, the first California town that was owned, populated, and governed solely by African-Americans.
And this was in 1906! Long before the civil rights movement.
To make this story even more amazing, the person who started this idea was born a slave. Allen Allensworth's life-story is simply awe inspiring.
Born a slave in 1842 Kentucky, he was the youngest of 13 children, some of whom were sold at young ages to other plantations. Allen learned to read by playing "school" with the master's son to whom he was assigned as a slave. But when the mistress found out, she sent him away because learning was illegal for slaves. Fortunately for Allen, she "lent" him to a kind Quaker, Mrs. Talbot who continued to teach him and also took him to a Sunday School for slaves. However, his mistress, Mrs. Starbird, found out and took him back. He was sent to a relative's plantation to put a stop to his learning.
Someone should really make a movie about his life. He triumphed over hateful circumstances, becoming educated and running away to join the Union Army in the Civil War when the opportunity presented itself. He served in the Army and then the Navy and reached the rank of Lieutenant Colonel - the first African-American to do so!
After the war, he returned to Kentucky and, with his brother, opened two successful restaurants. He continued his studies, joined the Baptist church and then became a preacher and theology student. He served as the financial agent of the General Association of the Colored Baptists which funded a religious school for black teachers and he was among the founders of The State University. He eventually settled in Los Angeles, California.
In 1908 he, along with four other men, undertook to build a town that would be completely owned, governed, and populated by African-Americans. They wanted to prove that, contrary to popular opinion, black people were just as smart and capable as whites.
They bought 800 acres of, at the time, fertile soil with ample water and a desirable location right beside a railway stop. Many black people of means including craftsman, businessmen, farmers, etc., shared his excitement and purchased land for homes and businesses. Some moved their families to Allensworth full time while others, like Colonel Allensworth, split their time between the town and larger cities such as Los Angeles and Oakland.
The town was a success. Until it wasn't. The water table began dropping and wells went dry or dropped so low they were contaminated with arsenic. Soon there was no drinkable water. Crop production and businesses had ground to a halt. The Santa Fe rail station moved from Allensworth to Alpaugh after they promised a better station.
The town was doomed. It was set for demolition at one point after most of the people had moved away. But luckily, in 1968, a former resident, Cornelius "Ed" Pope, worked as a draftsman for the California Department of Parks and Recreation and lobbied for the town to be saved and made into a State historical site. That first step was achieved in 1972. And then, in 1974, then Governor of California Ronald Reagan authorized the department to establish the park.
It's a wonderful place to visit and an awesome tribute to such an impressive and amazing man.
Trains, both freight and passenger, still pass by the town. But now Amtrak only stops with advanced "flag" notification before trips are booked.
This is the view as you cross the railroad tracks and catch your first sight of the town. The town looks like a miniature due to the wide open space and perspective.
Hindsman Co General Store
Hindsman Co General Store and the Howard House
The Allensworth Hotel
Tulare County Free Library otherwise known as the Mary Dickinson Memorial Library
Allensworth Elementary School
First Baptist Church
Ashby House, Dairy Barn, and Milkhouse
Bakery
Some things to know about visiting Allensworth.
Cash only please! $6 day use fee payable on the honor system (although the rangers are around and do check)
Internet is very spotty (hence the cash only)
There is a semi-primitive campground
There is a very nice Visitor's Center with lawn, shade, picnic tables, etc.
Pick the best time to visit! Check the calendar on their website. On certain days, such as for Juneteenth, the town is open with docents and festivities.
But you can always arrange to tour some of the buildings by calling in advance and talking to the rangers! (I wish I would have known this!)
xoxo
